Granada City Guide - 2 - Things to See |
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Granada is divided into upper and lower towns. The upper city has two hills that face each other across the Rio Darro gorge. On the southern hill stands the Alhambra, on the northern hill is the Albaizín. Albayzín This is the old Moorish district of town across the river from the Alhambra and interesting to wander around. Lots of little alleyways, bars and plazas with whitewashed houses. Don’t go around here late at night. This former ghetto is changing however and restaurants and hotels are now opening up here. Ancient Arab baths and the remains of the old Moorish walls can still be seen. You can get great views of the Alhambra here, and from the Alhambra great views of the Albayzín. Sacromonte These gypsy caves are a popular attraction. In summer flamenco shows are often held in the cave. The district of Sacromonte is across the river and up the hill through white washed houses and small squares. Not an area to wander alone at night. Another satellite hill leads off from the Albaicín, wandering into the Sacromonte district, long a haven for Granada's famous gypsies. A warren of little whitewashed homes trails out to a rocky mountainside riddled with caves. Downtown / centro This compact part of town is easy to navigate and is home to the business centre, restaurants, shops and hotels. Cuesta de Gomérez is one of the major streets here. It climbs uphill from the Plaza Nueva to the Alhambra. Or from Plaza Nueva you could head east or west along Calle de los Reyes Católicos to the cathedral. The major north-south road is Gran Vía de Colón. CHURCHES AND TOWERS La Alhambra This was the home of the last Moorish kingdom in Spain from the 13th to 15th centuries. It contains numerous royal residences and buildings. The Alcazaba is the fortress with huge towers which offer great views over the city. It dates from the 11th to 13th centuries. The Casa Real is the Royal Palace and was built for the rulers themselves with intricate stonework and stunning interiors including the Patio de los Leones (Patio of the Lions) and the Sala de las Dos Hermanas (Hall of the Two Sisters). The Generalife is the summer palace of the sultans and has wonderful green gardens. Cuesta de Gomerez (follow up from Plaza Nueva). Tel. 902 44 12 21 www.alhambra-patronato.es
Transportbus: 30, 32 Capilla Real This Royal Chapel was added in the late 16th century after the Muslim Kings were deposed. It houses the tombs of Fernando and Isabel, the Christian conquerors of Granada. Gran Via de Colon Granada’s Catedral Next to the Capilla Real on Gran Via de Colon is this Renaissance Cathedral which dates from the early 16th century. Iglesia de Santa Ana Just north of Plaza Nueva on the way to the Albayzín. PLAZAS Mirador de San Nicolas plaza This small plaza in the Albayzín district is a wonderful place to spend a morning, afternoon or better part of the day. The plaza offers a view of the Alhambra and the mountains beyond and is usually visited by buskers playing Spanish guitar, gypsy children and the occasional tourist. Plaza Bib-Rambla In the Albayzín district this plaza and around is worth exploring. MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES Casa de Castril This is an archaeological museum on your way up to the Albayzín on Carrera del Darro. FOUNTAINS AND GARDENS Generalife The gardens in the Alhambra’s Generalife of the summer palace are probably the best in town. Generalife, means “Architect’s Garden” and indeed the gardens are an incredible array of pools, fountains, hedges, trees, pathways and flowers all perfectly designed. Tel. 902 44 12 21 www.alhambra-patronato.es
MARKETS There are Arabic markets throughout the town with the same alternative produce you see everywhere in the world, but it does have atmosphere even in off season when the rest of Spain seems to have fallen asleep without the madness of bullfights and hordes of summer tourists. Rings, bracelets, incense, tea, clothing, and art are sold next to the teteria's (Arabic tea houses). In their dimly lit interiors, melting candelabra's burn in a profusion of arty globs beside low seating perfect for romantic minded couples. OTHER AREAS El Banuelo These Arab baths are on Carrera del Darro in the Albayzín. They are not expensive but it will set you back a few Euros (and if you take tea or refreshments there also). It is advisable to book for a massage 1-2 days ahead and to arrive punctually. Discount prices are available to students and groups. There is an atmospheric teteria above with Arabic teas and cakes, belly dancing, poetry and tales from the Andalucian-Arabic tradition. The baths are made up of a patio (court), dressing room, cold, warm and hot rooms with geometric mosaics, carved arches and slatted shutters. Sierra Nevada Las Alpujarras, the last Moorish refuge, is well known for white washed villages like Bubion, Pampaleira and Capileira that are perched on the sides of its mountains. The towns contain typical terraced architecture with flat roofed houses and tall chimneys, grapevines and a snowy backdrop. Walking tracks dot the hillsides and most start from Capiliera, one of the highest villages in Spain. The little towns are pleasant with touristy shops selling postcards, locally made jam and leather, jewellery and knick knacks but in off season they are quiet and during siesta you're lucky to find more than a sleeping cat. Alcaicería
This was once the Muslim silk exchange but was destroyed in a fire in the 19th century. Today the restored building is filled with tourist shops and located south of the Capilla Real.
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